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Jacklake

Member Since 26 May 2013
Offline Last Active Aug 24 2014 09:32 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Loop to loop connection

05 June 2014 - 10:09 PM

The mono for the nail knot and first loop should be about .021" dia. or 25# test at least to carry the momentum from the line to the leader.  Cheap mono is fine as it is not the weakest part of the system.  The 'permanent' mono cannot be finer than the butt of your leader.

Also check out welding loops at the end of your fly line with a bit of heat-shrink tubing (later discarded).  Here is the video.  The melted part does not have to be as long as Peter makes it.  You can also use a lighter, candle, or roll the tube across the top of a 60W bulb, but you have to be careful not to burn the line.  If you do, just cut it off and try again, you only lose about 4" of line.

 

The slip-on braided loops are sometimes MORE flexible than either the line or the butt of the leader and this can lead to casting problems.  As well, the braid retains water which sprays all over the place on the cast - possibly spooking fish.


In Topic: New to Fly

15 May 2014 - 05:36 PM

Practicing will help!

Only if you practice the correct things!

 

If you have just started I think I can tell from here the improvements you need to make.

  1. Keep a stiff wrist - casting is not throwing (CINT).
  2. Keep your elbow near your side (not pinned to it, you can move it 3 or 4 inches fore and back) - casting is not throwing.
  3. On your backcast stop your rod hand near your jaw/ear area where you can see the reel - this is probably higher than your current position.
  4. On the forecast bring your rod hand in a straight line firmly to a postion level with your chest and stop instantaeously.  There is no follow-through and no final oomph on the fishing cast. (CINT)
  5. The line is the same distance behind you as in front of you.  It takes exactly the same energy to propel it back as it does foreward, and it takes exactly the same amount of time for it to unroll behind as it does in front.  Timing is everything.
  6. Once the line is extended (still in the air) on the final cast, lower the tip of the rod at the same rate as the line is falling.

Keep a stiff wrist.


In Topic: A few basic questions

15 May 2014 - 08:13 AM

From Wickipedia:

In a flowing stream, a riffle-pool sequence (also known as a pool-riffle sequence) develops as a stream's hydrological flow structure alternates from areas of relatively shallow to deeper water. This sequence is present only in streams carrying gravel or coarser sediments. Riffles are formed in shallow areas by coarser materials such as gravel deposits over which water flows. Pools are deeper and calmer areas whose bed load (in general) is made up of finer material such as silt. [1] Streams with only sand or silt laden beds do not develop the feature. The sequence within a stream bed commonly occurs at intervals of from 5 to 7 stream widths. Meandering streams with relatively coarse bed load tend to develop a riffle-pool sequence with pools in the outsides of the bends and riffles in the crossovers between one meander to the next on the opposite margin of the stream. The pools are areas of active erosion and the material eroded tends to be deposited in the riffle area between.

 

Also see http://sportfishinga...iffle-run-pool/


In Topic: Best waders for under 300$

14 May 2014 - 06:19 PM

I have Kennabec chest high from LLBean and they are awesome.  The belt is wide and really easy to use.  The shoulder straps detach if you want to roll down the bib to use as waist-highs.  Most importantly, the feet are shaped like feet/shoes.  My previous waders and those of a friend each failed - after a few years - because the feet were too long.  The folds wore out first.

The first pair of LLBean that arrived fit in the body well, but the feet were too small.  Sent them back to Montreal and a week later had the right size.

If you are wondering about the size to get - phone them and discuss - toll free.  Excellent service and a lifetime warrantee.

My boots are Chota, and the 4 of us who have them in the club are all quite satisfied - some like them better than the Orvis.  Simms boots rank well with the members but are more costly.


In Topic: New to Fly

14 May 2014 - 05:11 PM

Unless you want to catch steelhead and bass, your rods are fine.  A 9ft 4wt would hardly feel different than the 5wt, and a 9ft 3wt would feel almost the same as your 7.5ft except obviously a bit longer.  I suggest the next rod you get is a 9ft 7wt, but that can wait.

I think you should first learn to cast and mend better with the tools you have.  Only then will you really know about rods and how they feel/work and be able to judge well when you get the next one.  Cheers.