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DIY Center pin

Started by 420Fisher , Dec 22 2010 01:53 AM

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6 replies to this topic

#1 420Fisher

Sunfish

Members
100 posts

Posted 22 December 2010 - 01:53 AM

hey yall, im trying to make a homemade center pin reel. i get all matirals from wok (press shop)

im dtarting with a 5 inch base and a 4.5 inch reel for my line, it will be 1 inch wide,

anyone have any ideas on bearings? or bushing i should or could use?

ill try to post blue prints and my project so some of you can kinda picture what i got so far.
or if anyone has any other prints, id love to take a look.
thanks!~

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#2 staffman

Smallmouth Bass

Active Members
1,021 posts

Posted 22 December 2010 - 09:37 AM

If you google Boca bearings you can see the sizes that they carry.

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#3 Guest_Blair_*

Guests

Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:25 PM

hey yall, im trying to make a homemade center pin reel. i get all matirals from wok (press shop)

im dtarting with a 5 inch base and a 4.5 inch reel for my line, it will be 1 inch wide,

anyone have any ideas on bearings? or bushing i should or could use?

ill try to post blue prints and my project so some of you can kinda picture what i got so far.
or if anyone has any other prints, id love to take a look.
thanks!~

The Centre Pin Reel

by CabbagePatchKid » Sun Feb 15, 2009 3:10 pm

Do we have any Centre-Pin devotees out there? I hope so.
Avonbarbel has asked me to put a piece together on the subject, so here goes...

The centre pin reel as we know it today was born in the mid 1800s in the suburbs of Nottingham. Small manufacturers supplied the requirements of the local River Trent anglers who wanted a lightweight free-running reel. These simple wooden reels, known as Nottingham reels promoted a method of fishing - the Nottingham style. They rapidly gained popularity and by the 1890's were being mass-produced by large companies such as Reuben Heaton, Smith & Wall, Allcocks and David Slater- indeed the Slater reels were amongst the finest made, very expensive at the time, and very collectable today.

The primitive early reels evolved considerably until their decline in the 1950's and there are some wonderful creations still around for the collector - constructed from amazing combinations of Walnut, Mahogany, brass, ebonite (a bakelite-type material) and alloys. Some of these reels are real works of art.

Around the end of the Victorian era saw the introduction of Aluminium alloys in reel manufacture and indeed metal reels would eventually all but replace the wooden ones. There are a bewildering number of manufacturers and models of alloy centre-pins during the last century. Again some are superb and eagerly sought by collectors - none more so than the famous Aerial Reel.

This reel was designed by Henry Coxon for the old-established tackle company of Allcocks, who marketed the reel for around 70 years! Of a spoked open face design, the Coxon Aerial was originally made with an ebonite drum and wooden back with brass fittings - similar to the popular Nottingham reels of the day, but in use its lightness was a revelation and many still rate the earliest Coxons as the best centre pins ever. The Aerial evolved over the years with literally dozens of models and variants. The best ones are the pre-war (1940) reels - these truly represent the high-water mark of the reelmakers' art and are as usable now as the day they were made.

There were many other fine reels made by other companies - among them Hardys, Allcocks, and the largest of the lot, J.W.Young and Sons. Jim Young was head reelmaker at Allcocks in the late 1880's and helped in the design of the Coxon Aerial. It seems he left to set-up his company to manufacture the Aerial for Allcocks in the mid 1890's. Youngs manufactured fishing reels for many of the big names such as Allcocks, Milwards, Fosters, Farlow, Sealey and latterly Shakespeare. They exported their reels, bearing other companies' names, all over the world. After the Second World War Youngs introduced a range of reels bearing their own name. All were of modern design and dominated the quality reel market for decades. In this range of reels we find famous names such as the Rapidex and Trudex centre-pins and the Ambidex fixed spool reel.

Youngs have continued in production with their modern range of reels (until comparatively recently still made in the UK, now owned by Masterline) and today still offer some of the finest Centre-Pin reels available - most still built around the Allcock Aerial principle. Of these the Ray Walton "Rolling Pin" will be of most interest to our members - it's a magnificent centre pin, conceived for Barbel fishing, which swivels to enable those mortals amongst us to be able to cast straight from the reel!

Incidentally, Garry Mills, a really nice guy, who was reelmaker with the now-defunct J.W.Young factory now markets his own hand made Aerial-style reel, made to the specifications of the Barbel Catchers Club. It's a beauty!

Well, that had better do for now - I hope one or two of you are still awake! But I urge all to try a centre pin - although in all honesty not easy to use, the rewards in playing a fish on a 'pin just have to be experienced.

The Pics below show an original Coxon Aerial of 1896 and a current Youngs Purist CL of about a century later - you can see the family resemblance. Now that's a production run!

Posted Image

Centre-pin Reel Defined

A Short Historical Overview-

The birth of the fishing reel can be traced back to paintings depicting 12^th century Chinese fisherman using rods and several styles of “winding” mechanisms. Although conflicting accounts exist, the idea of a mechanical means to facilitate the storage and retrieving of long lengths of line can be documented in reference material to the early multiplying reels of Britain. Multiplying geared reels were later perfected and improved upon by George Snyder of Paris, Kentucky USA in what would eventually become modern day bait casting reels.

The centre-pin reel’s origins, specifically, date back to the early 1800’s. They were more of an adaptation of early fly reels called “Nottingham Winches” made from rosewood and used by the Scots. Using wood in combination with brass and other metals was a common technique at this time. Centre-pin’s gained considerable popularity due to the manufacturing contributions of Henry Coxon, James William Young, and Samuel Allcocks in the mid to late 1800’s. Henry Coxon’s (a bicycle maker) coxon aerial reel, spoked like a bicycle tire, was one of the first great and well accepted centre-pin reel designs and had a reputation as being the best at that time due to the reduction in weight and straight running spool. The spoked spool design was quickly duplicated by many makers of the era. The first well documented Centre-pin reel was introduced by Samuel Allcocks in 1894 after the patent for its design was granted to JW Young in 1893. The “Duplex” salmon fishing reel was revolutionary for the industry because of the ability to switch between an ordinary free spool (drag less) to a checked (click pawl drag) reel. Fast forward to today, through modern engineering techniques involving tighter tolerances, better materials, more advanced metallurgy, and you have the anodized centre-pin reel in a multitude of diameters, thicknesses, and features.

So what exactly is a centerpin, centre pin, or centre-pin reel?

In many ways it is simply an oversized large arbor fly reel that rides on bearing races and plays fish without the use of a mechanical drag.

No mechanical drag! How do I fight fish?

The old fashioned way, of course! Common fish fighting methods involved “palming” the rim of the spool, resistance by way of the thumb or fingers, or the misuse of the clicker.

What is meant by “misuse of the clicker”? Isn’t the clicker supposed to assist in fighting fish?

With the exception of a few reels made with an adjustable mechanical drag system, the clicker on a centre-pin is to be used when transporting only. It is a means to stop the spool from “free spinning” and the result bird’s nest of line.

Adjustable drag/resistance mechanisms on a centre-pin reel, isn’t that sacrilege to the design premise?

To some it would seem that incorporating a drag would be the exact reverse of what centre-pinning is all about. Drag free drifts, remember? And while I agree, there are some very nice centre-pins that have the ability to engage a resistance mechanism (some with adjustable tension) in the event assistance is needed when fighting a fish. One caveat of centre-pin reels is they all are unique, with specialized features, histories, and most come with some sort of story to tell (if not, certainly a story to sell!).

What other notable and unique design inclusions are available?

In Europe, caged centre-pins are quite common, however, in the United States line cages seem to be a part of the reel that is most often missing. Offset reels are unique in the fact that the reel is positioned off an angled reel foot and usually over several rings of cork of the fore grip. Serving both a balance purpose and hand position comfort application, offset reels have a cult following.

What do you mean by “free spooling”?

The spool of a centre-pin sits on a bearing race. This bearing can be a brass bushing or ball bearings, but in either case it usually only takes the push of water against the float or excessive wind to initiate the spinning of the spool. With a simple tug, a centre-pin reel can literally spin for minutes. While this isn’t necessarily a gauge of quality, it sure is impressive to watch!

What makes a centre-pin so special?

Three words; drag free drifts. When depth is set accurately, shotting patterns applied properly, and the trotting technique executed correctly, the result is a drag free drift that presents an offering to the target species in the most natural way possible.

Will a centre-pin make me a better angler? Will it improve my hook rates?

That depends! A well rounded angler must be aware of the behavioral instincts of the prey. This would include knowing how to read water and how this translates into fish behavior. It is my strong conviction that the best centre-pin anglers are those that have come from a successful fly fishing background. But, certainly those that know fish behavior and know how to read water will find the centre-pin and drift rod a successful combination.

Why do you suggest that a fly fisherman would be more successful with a centre-pin/float rod setup than others?

This opinion may be based on broad generalizations, but I have found that successful fly fisherman have a knack for thinking like their prey. Through the use of flies, they have researched and developed a keen sense of knowing the “what, when, where, and how” (if you will) of fish behavior, maybe s a result of having to initially work harder through casting mechanicals to hook fish. Then as they learn more and adapt that knowledge to the streams, they develop this “sixth sense” of where the fish will be and when.

I may be off base with this assumption, but time and time again…I have had this proved correctly on-stream while fishing beside new flea flicking to fly floating converts.

How exactly are centre-pins used while fishing?

Centre-pins are an extremely useful tool for the float fisherman. Float fisherman being the operative words. The free spooling nature of the reel permits the float “specialized bobber”, terminal tackle, and offering to drift through a swim and beyond. It is not uncommon, with reduced angling pressure, to be able to float 20-50 yards effectively. The only limitations are the changing subsurface depths and the quality of your eyesight. Because the most effective drift needs to have the offering set “to depth”, although not impossible, it is impractical to fish from the head, through the belly, and out the tail out of a swim and expect to present to the fish in all three areas accurately.

To use a centre-pin, one casts the offering (using whatever casting method you choose) to a slightly upstream position and follows the float downstream while the water current (because of hydraulic pressure against the float) pays out line off the reel. Occasionally, it may be necessary to slightly brake, feather, or apply slight resistance to the spool rim to slow a drift down. This feathering of the spool results in your float “trotting” through the swim. Ideally, you are aiming for the offering to be the very first thing that the prey sees. And you want to slow the offering to subsurface current speeds so that it is presented as natural as possible.

When the float goes down, thrusts upward, or tilts side to side it is time to set the hook. If the depth of the offering is correct, these float movements are a direct result of a fish strike. When in doubt set the hook!

What cast is recommended for beginners to learn, the Modified Wallis Cast?

Yes, the modified Wallis cast, or pull cast, is the best to learn for the newbie. Although it may seem quite difficult in the beginning, putting forth the time and energy into perfecting this cast will pay huge dividends down the road. The elimination of line twist is the ultimate goal and with this casting style this goal is easily achieved. Once you’ve mastered the mechanics, it won’t matter whether you are casting a bushing or bearing, small or large centre-pin reel.

Bushing or bearing centre-pin; what do these terms describe?

In early centre-pin reels, it was a very common manufacturing process to use a brass “oil-lite” bearing as the means for the spool body to rotate on the spindle. The procedure hasn’t changed very much in modern day centre-pins that incorporate the use of brass bushings (sometimes called brass bearings) in their design. However, the innovation of ball bearings and their use within aluminum bodied pins has greatly improved the spin of today’s modern day reels. Some will argue that a well broken-in bearing reel will deliver the same performance of a ball-bearing reel and may be easier from a maintenance perspective. This may be true, but for most individuals considering their very first center-pin purchase, ball-bearing reels make up the majority of the options in your local shop’s display case.

What effect does spool weight and diameter have on drifting performance?

A plethora of reel sizes are available in the 4” – 5.5” diameter and between 6 – 11 ounces. With the many models available, it is easy to get confused as to which will be the best performer and why. Consider this, all reels in this spectrum will give you good drifting capabilities, they’ll all have good start up (a component of ball bearings, good design tolerances, and mass) and they will all work well for steelhead angling. In the end, it is a balance game (literally) in regards to the following factors:

What species are you targeting? (steelhead, salmon, carp, catfish, smallmouth, or other)

What are the common stream flow rates in its habitat?

How long will your float rod be?

If the stream flow is anything other than slow and meandering, then a high mass, large diameter centre-pin will work perfectly. However, getting a steady drift and a smooth spin from an 11 ounce - 5.5” diameter pin in slack water or slow flowing pools, may be quite challenging.

A high mass spool, once started, will smoothly pay out line and make for perfect trotting given a certain level of flow (pressure against the float). In the same situation, a small and extremely light bodied centre-pin will begin paying out line quickly and likely run into “over run”. “Over run” is the situation where the reel spins at a higher rate than the drift warrants. In this situation, one has to constantly tend to the spool to balance the line speed to the drift conditions. Utilizing a small, low mass spool in conditions with minimal flow would be ideal.

Spool diameter will affect retrieve rate as well. For every one revolution of the spool, a certain length of line will be brought in. It would reason that the larger the spool the faster one can retrieve line with every rotation.

When you commit to centre-pinning full time, you’ll discover that some of the applicable equipment that is well suited for steelhead angling outmatches other target species. For example, a 4” reel is better suited for smallmouth and catfish angling due to the reduction in weight that balances the possibility of a shorter length summertime float rod. When choosing to ‘pin for small trout, whether it be stocked or resident trout, it is common to use a 9-10’6” rod. In this situation a 3.5’-4” centre-pin is a better balance to the rod. A certain level of adaptability is necessary to find a rod length, pin weight, and cork configuration that suits the style and species targeted. It is may be necessary to have at least two (maybe three) separate centre-pin “rigs” to tackle steelheading, carping, river smallmouth, catfishing, and springcreek small trout fishing.

What does the term Offset Reel refer to?

A centre-pin with an offset reel foot will feature (by design) a spool brought forward through a reel foot that is shaped like the letter “J”. When the reel is secured within the reel seat, the spool will be positioned over the first couple rings of the fore grip. If you prefer the feel of cork in the hand while tending the spool and if an aluminum reel seat is in use, the heat and comfort advantages are very good. Another advantage is balance. With a rod that requires an adjustment toward the tip, the offset mass of the spool can assist greatly.

What should I know about maintenance? Will I have to baby this reel?

I think the answer will depend on how well you take care of your equipment to begin with. Because the centre-pin is a finely machined, tight toleranced, and highly “tuned” fishing instrument made from billet aluminum, it would reason that keeping it out of harms way would be wise. This would include limiting exposure to gravel, sand, grit, and the water. While you don’t have to be extremely concerned with water, there are some safeguards to keep a centre-pin operational for years to come. It is advisable to dry them anytime they may have taken a swim and clean them off with a soft sponge or terry cloth towel. Carefully disassembling a reel periodically to inspect it is also a good habit to practice. Follow the instructions for care and maintenance from the manufacturer. Many centre-pinners will suggest that the bearings be degreased and re-lubricated with fine sewing machine oil. Unless stated in the owner’s manual or OK’d by a service representative, I would suggest that you NOT do this.

How does one set the hook on a centre-pin reel?

Hooksets can be made by momentary clasping the spool tight, braking, and a slight upward or side twitch of the rod. Be ready to begin palming the reel and applying drag because this is typically when the resulting fish run begins.

Can steelhead really be fought by palming alone on a centre-pin reel? How is this possible?

Steelhead aren’t the only fierce sum species that can be fought with palm drag alone. There are many ‘pinners that hunt salmon with their centre-pins. The answer is yes; learning to palm correctly is all you need to win the battle with charging steelhead. The reasons have to do the way float rods are constructed, the type of line we use, and the variability of palm resistance.

A hooked fish head thrashing is handled by the flexibility of the long rods typically used in conjunction with the centre-pin reel. The amount of give that is available in a 13’ – 15’ rod is enough to act as a buffer on the short runs and resulting head shakes. Palming is an art unto itself and is entirely based on timing. Knowing when to clamp down on the spool and not give an inch or when to apply slight pressure and allow the fish to make a few runs is a result of experiencing the extremes of your tackle. Most ‘pinners use monofilament mainlines in the 8-15# range coupled to 4-8# tippet material. Using 4-6# tippet and bringing to hand 24-32” (and larger) steelhead should give you a great indication of how well the system works.

Great Centre-Pin Story:

My Progression to the Dark Side:

A Journey Into Centre-pinning

By Brian Morrow

My experience as an angler began at the age of four in Northeast Ohio where I was exposed to Lake Erie and many smaller inland lakes such as Pymatuning on the Ohio Pennsylvania border. My parents and grandparents had a passion for fishing. They passed this passion along to me at an early age and it has stuck ever since.

As I grew a little older and became a better angler I had the desire to fish from a boat. At the age of 11, Mom and I purchased a used 14 foot Sea Nymph equipped with a 6Hp motor. For the first few years, we didn’t have a trailer, so we transported via the car-top method. It was good enough to get us to the water. As time passed and Mom got older, the need for a trailer became stronger. We were lucky enough to find a suitable trailer for a great price at Blystone’s in Mentor-on-the-Lake. The trailer made fishing excursions much easier. Mom no longer had to worry about backaches and I no longer had to worry about getting that heavy boat on top of the car by myself. Life was good at this point.

Mom and I continued the habit of making weekend trips to Pymatuning on a regular basis. If the lake wasn’t frozen; we were cruising the lake catching fish. We became very familiar with the lake and the structure it had to offer. As we logged more time and experience, we caught more and more fish of varied species. On one of our more memorable outings, Mom and I managed to catch five Fish Ohio record fish in the same day! I even managed to make some money guiding on the lake. It wasn’t a fulltime endeavor, but I did manage to make enough over a single summer to buy a Bottomline Tournament 310 electronic fish-finder for our boat. At the time it was the top-of-the-line and high performance. The fish-finder gave an added advantage and allowed me to see what was below. I quickly learned how to read it and to locate fish with ease.

Upon turning 18, I made the decision that it was time to move out on my own and see what the world had to offer. Consequently, my weekend trips with Mom to Pymatuning came to an end, but we still managed to find time to fish together. The boat didn’t see nearly as much use and it ended up being sold. Mom still had the urge to fish on occasion, so we began targeting local rivers and tributaries. This is where I soon found my true passion; Steelhead!

Mom wasn’t about to follow me to the rivers in the dead of winter. She said it made her old bones ache and she didn’t want any part of it. I was on my own, but I didn’t mind. Spending time on a river by your self is quite relaxing and peaceful. I invested many hours, on the water and alone, trying to figure out how to catch Steelhead. I ran into anglers that were kind enough to pass along tidbits of information and I gladly took their advice and ran with it. It was suggested I use a smaller diameter line, because these fish were extremely spooky. I dropped my line from ten pound line to six pound test and increased my catch rate. After battling a couple dozen Steelhead, I was absolutely hooked. These fish and their brawn made all other Ohio fish that I had caught look ridiculous. I continued to fish for summer species, but I always looked forward to fall and the great number of river bound steelhead that would return to spawn. There were only a handful of us (at least that I knew of) at that time that were “stupid” enough to brave the harsh winter elements. Consequently, it was fairly easy to catch steelhead back then because of the lack of fishing pressure.

Always looking to improve myself and my game, I finally upgraded my gear and bought a St. Croix Wild River 10’ 6” noodle rod. I also invested heavily in an expensive new spinning reel. Needless to say, I was eager to catch fish on the new setup. I headed to the river with my rig and hooked a bunch of fish. It was suggested that I try jigs. So I did and I caught even more fish than ever before. This was awesome! I continued to fish for steelhead for two or three more years, and then I had an unfortunate car accident. I severally injured my right hand which prevented me from fishing at all. It was just too uncomfortable to fish with a gimped up hand. It wasn’t that I didn’t want to fish; I just couldn’t! To hold onto a fishing rod all day would cause me severe pain and discomfort. I sold most of my fishing gear and for a decade continued to pursue and advance my career in archery.

Two years ago I underwent what I had hoped would be my last surgery. Since that operation my hand is almost back to normal. Best of all outcomes, I can fish again! Accepting a fishing invitation from a couple friends, I found that my hand and wrist had no problems holding onto a rod for a couple of hours. To me it was obvious; it was time to chase Steelhead again!

Last October I met Defjam, (Domenic), on TSS when I inquired about a custom made rod. We talked for quite a while about his rods and fishing in general. Dj mentioned something about a centre-pin reel and float fishing. I had no idea what one was or how it worked, but was very intrigued by what I heard. I did some research on the topic and became even more interested. Dj tried his best, over the phone, to explain the advantages versus a spinning reel, but I couldn’t completely grasp them all. He mentioned that he had a used Raven Matrix centre-pin reel for sale and offered at an attractive price. It was more than I honestly wanted to spend, but I felt compelled to give it a try. On the drive home after purchasing the reel, I couldn’t help but continually spin the spool and look the reel over. I have to admit, I wasn’t impressed. It looked like a big fly reel and it had no drag whatsoever! I thought I had made a purchase that I would soon regret.

That night I loaded up the reel with the recommended line. It did have a pleasant appearance, but I still had reservations about its ability to catch fish. I contemplated how I was going to fight fish with no drag? And, how the heck do I cast this thing?! Dj sent me a few casting video how-to links. I watched the videos over and over, and I practiced in the backyard until I felt that I could cast my line well enough to catch fish with it.

The next day I headed to the river fully determined to catch fish. At first I hated the centre-pin. The inability to cast effortlessly aggravated me to no end. I stuck with it and proceeded to make a complete mess of my line. I refused to give up! I stayed on the river all day, and kept practicing my casting. I didn’t catch any fish at all that day and I left the river discouraged. I phoned Domenic and he offered some additional tips. They helped a

The next morning I set out again, but this time I was ready. I was able to cast well enough to get where I needed to be in order to present my offering to fish. As soon as I got out into the current and I witnessed the float take off… I knew then what the fuss was all about. I drifted my float so far down river that I lost sight of it. It was at that moment that I realized this was how I wanted to fish. The center pin reel truly does allow for a drag-free drift. This was something that just can’t be duplicated with spinning gear. As I continued to fish with the new setup I learned to trot, or slightly apply resistance to the spool. This allows the bait to stay in the strike zone a bit longer as well as manipulate the offering into position.

Within the next couple of weeks I had became proficient enough with the center pin to fish wherever I liked. The limitations had been lifted and I found myself catching more fish than I ever had before. I continued to research, study, and learn the various methods of center pin fishing. My appetite for knowledge was huge. In my research, I discovered that I was rigging incorrectly and read up on different rigging methods based on changing conditions. I also began to use fluorocarbon line for the first time in my life. Being away from fishing for almost a decade had left me high and dry in the technology department. I also learned how and where to place my split shot known as shotting patterns. This was never a concern before because I was using a weighted jig heavy enough to hang near the bottom. I found a video on shot rigging patterns that was video taped with Craig @ Erie Outfitters, Sheffield Lake, Ohio. What I learned by watching was a tremendous help to me and my confidence.

I employed the use of a micro-swivel and smaller shot per the recommendations and this increase my catch rate even more. Things were getting insane by this point. I had never in my life caught so many steelhead on Ohio rivers. I contribute this to several things, but I believe the center pin reel played the largest role in my new found success. I could drift for what seemed like forever, and I did it drag-free. This was a tremendous improvement over what I could accomplish with a spinning reel.

By the end of the month I knew that I was addicted to the center pin, and that this was going to be my preferred method of choice. I started looking into better reels. Let’s face it, the Raven Matrix is a decent reel to get started, but it doesn’t compare to some of the other reels that are available. I met Blackie, who was fishing with a prototype of Countryboy’s, Adam DeMarco, Paine Falls Centerpin. I loved it! The startup and the way the reel felt in my hand was remarkable. So, I placed my order for a Paine Falls Center Pin. In a few months I had a new reel that I absolutely love. It was new and shiny and in an unusual way it provided me more confidence.

I continued to fish the rest of 2007 season with my new PFC reel. I became more proficient at casting and learned that a mechanical drag was not at all needed. The variable control when using my palm as resistance against the bottom of the spool enhanced the battle with every fish. This gave me the sense of truly fighting the fish. Without a mechanical drag interfering with the connection between me and the fish, the battles seemed, in my mind, more honorable. It was just me and the fish. The challenge was part of the fun and compelled me to want to catch more and more fish. The drag on my spinning reel had always done the hard part for me, but now it was completely up to me to fight the fish. I was the drag! If I goofed up and applied too much pressure the fish won.

I now own two center pin reels and have since sold two of my three spinning reels, since I won’t be using them for steelhead. I kept one spinning reel to use in the summer months and for low flow / slow current river fishing. Center pin reels have changed the way I fish. The reel has immensely increased my catch rate. I never understood what the fuss was all about until I hit the water with one, and witnessed what a truly drag-free drift was all about. I am truly convinced that the center pin reel is an asset to any fisherman who fishes for steelhead in a river, or place, where there is current.

If you haven’t tried a center pin reel yet… it’s about time you do!

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#4 grubman

Largemouth Bass

Active Members
1,529 posts

Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:20 PM

Hi Fisher

Geez it's been almost 15 years since I finished college when I built my own center pin with parts in their shop. It's very rough looking and I found a oversized bearing in the bottom of some parts box......lol. I knew it was too big but there was'nt much choice. But the aluminum and all materials were free..........

If you have or can get an old VCR there are 11X3mm (I think that's how big they are) bearings in every VCR. Or you could go to your local hobby shop that sell RC cars. The high end cars use bearings in the wheels and drive train. I know John's Photo and Hobby has them.

I wish I had access to a machine shop again. Now there are'nt any night courses with mills and lathes except for the colleges, the high school courses are gone. Go with abec 3 or higher for more precision like the ones in VCRs.

Good luck and post pics when your done. I look forward to seeing it.