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Winter Thaw Steelhead Strategies
#1
Posted 21 January 2013 - 07:01 PM
Just wondering if some of you consistently successful steelheaders would give us some insights into the secrets of your success!
Specifically...
a) How do you determine which river you choose to fish? Do you fish your regular tribs, do you look for the most water, the least water etc.? It seems to me that the most successful guys are willing to run-and-gun, but how do you choose your starting spot?
Does time of day matter that much?
c) How do you deal with super slushy conditions? - or do you just move on to another trib?
d) Any thoughts about the movement of steelhead during thaw conditions? (How far do they run upriver; what causes them to stay in the "open-season" sections of rivers; how quickly do they head back to the lake etc???)
I realize these questions cover a great deal of info., but if anyone is willing to contribute knowledge on any of these topics it would be greatly appreciated.
You can also PM me if you don't want to discuss in open forum.
Thanks.
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#2
Posted 21 January 2013 - 08:11 PM
#3
Posted 21 January 2013 - 08:49 PM
I live near by couple rivers and work near one. I always check water level at my way to or from work. I prefer bigger water.
#4
Posted 21 January 2013 - 08:55 PM
#5
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:05 PM
1. Hydrometric data, past baseline and forecasted trend.
2. Weather conditions (temps, wind, barometric, recent and forecasted rain)
3. Sun and lunar positions.
If all 3 line up, than you should be killing it on the river.
Learning to read hydrometic data (levels and discharge) helps you understand which rivers clears up quicker while other tribs takes longer.
#6
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:09 PM
#7
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:10 PM
http://www.wateroffi...l?agree=I Agree
Weather conditions (current and forecasted):
http://www.theweathe...96?ref=homecity
Sun-Lunar positions:
http://www.solunarfo...arcalendar.aspx
Keep in mind that the data presented by these sites are to be used as guidelines and not to be taken as 'gospel'.
After some experience, you will get to learn how to use all 3 data-metrics to determine the best days/times/conditions for winter steelheading.
#8
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:16 PM
#9
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:25 PM
Nothing beats time on the river fishing for chromes.
#10
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:26 PM
#11
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:31 PM
very useful,Hydrometric data:
http://www.wateroffi...l?agree=I Agree
Weather conditions (current and forecasted):
http://www.theweathe...96?ref=homecity
Sun-Lunar positions:
http://www.solunarfo...arcalendar.aspx
Keep in mind that the data presented by these sites are to be used as guidelines and not to be taken as 'gospel'.
After some experience, you will get to learn how to use all 3 data-metrics to determine the best days/times/conditions for winter steelheading.
tnx!
#12
Posted 22 January 2013 - 02:45 AM
very useful,
tnx!
when I came to Toronto, I called the MNR and asked about high tide and low tide info, they said we don't have such a thing!
This website made my day.
TNX!
#13
Posted 22 January 2013 - 08:43 AM
#14
Posted 22 January 2013 - 09:18 AM
lots of great advice here. I will add slowing down your drifts. I find because the fish are moving slower in the cold water, slowing down the drift makes for more hits.
Excellent point. Reason why to you should carry different size, shape, gram, and type of floats to use in specific conditions.
#15
Posted 22 January 2013 - 11:04 AM
#16
Posted 22 January 2013 - 11:37 AM
#17
Posted 22 January 2013 - 12:04 PM
if your going to fish a trib after a thaw the water is going to be stained so fish a trib you know well so you know where the all the structure is, you'll probly save yourself a few reties aswel!
+1 This is bang on. At thaw, expect the water to be murky. Last thaw, I was drifting while ice was cracking. Consistent running water and get the hookups where the water slows down and creates a whirl.
I'm just waiting for the next thaw and will try some Live Forage Minnows.
#18
Posted 22 January 2013 - 01:00 PM
Once the steelhead are in the rivers some will blast up as fast but the majority stay in the lower to middle sections and slowly move up over several days or weeks or even months. Generally when water level tend to stablize the fish are usually located in slower water and deeper pools where they will feel safe. Anytime there is good structure ie: bolders, logs, undercuts ect. there tends to be fish around. A good starting point is to find the foam line in slower pockets and pools and go from there.
During the winter months the strike zone for a trout can be very small, they are less likely to chase down forage like they would in the fall or the warmer periods of spring. Sometimes taking dozens of drifts over the same small section of a spot is the only way to get them to bite. The spot within a spot can be critical at this time of year, the only way to determine this is simply spending time on the water. The more time you spend on the rivers and creeks the more successful you will be.
Another good tip its simply to slow down your drifts or presentation, keeping your bait in front of the fishes face as long as possible can greatly effect the number of bites you get.
In general goopy roe bags will be the go to bait, trout beads can also be very effective but don't be afraid to try worms( real or artifical), small crankbaits, spinners, spoons, heavy fly's, creatures or a plastic minnow such as Berkley Gulp, these can produce strikes as well.
I have drifted many times with roe in a spot for hours only to watch someone throw out a crankbait and hit a fish in a cast or two and vise-versa.
For equipment, For drifting most people use a 4.5"-5"centerpin reel, the standard float rod is 13' with a medium light action with a line rating anywhere from 3 to 10lb test with the standard being 4-8lb. If you plan on fishing larger rivers then something like a 15' would be more effective and if you fish small creeks with lots of trees and overhead obsticles then a rod being 10' or 12' would be more practical.
For spinners and crankbaits a steelhead rod around the 7'-10' with a spinning reel would be the ticket, these rods usually have lots of backbone, soft tips and always have a reel seat.
I hope this info helps.
Good Luck!
#19
Posted 24 January 2013 - 12:26 AM
And trust me, I'd much rather learn the steelheader's craft spending time on the tribs instead of on a laptop...
#20
Posted 24 January 2013 - 10:47 AM
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