Shawarma

I started with an Amundson reel.. it was a beauty, looks wise. I fought a few fish with it and it was fine when fish was on, but the drifts weren't great. Wasn't smooth to let line out. It lasted 2 weeks in my box but i had a great deal on it and sold it for what i bought it. 

 

Picked up a used Islander and bought ABEC 7s for it. It didn't need them but i bought into the whole "spin it for 8 minutes!" bull poop. Don't do that. You don't need it to spin freely for 8 minutes. 

 

Figure out your budget, and there's a good reel in that range. 

Don't let the stories scare you. My intro steelheading was on opener for the most part and it was amazing. Busy.. But amazing.

Go expecting crowds, needing to move around, finding other spots and you'll have a great time.

The crowds will only piss you off if you allow it to.

Muskie, you are an absolute wealth of knowledge. Thank you for sharing all of that info with us.

You'll find stretches to fish that are blocked from the wind. It'll be a fun learning experience

Even with only a few ice seasons under my belt, i'd disagree with the above recommendations about a flasher over a digital display. This is an agree to disagree conversation as there's thousands of these discussions online.

 

I've had zero lag issues in the cold temps and i went out in ridiculous temps last year. Even though LCD has the word "liquid" in it, it's not going to freeze but slow down because it inherits the states of both a liquid and solid due to it's composition being in the middle of those two states. An ipod left in your car overnight will lag initially until it warms up but then is perfectly fine. If you're going to be standing outside without a heated shelter for the entire day in -30C then "maybe" that's a different discussion, but even then i'd be hard pressed to believe it'll lag as it's still working and generates heat which will keep those components sufficiently warm. 

 

The battery on my Lowrance was solid and easily stretched over a few days of heavy use without requiring a charge. 

 

I can't bring myself to stare at those flashing lights on a flasher. Again, personal preference.

 

This is pretty much what every conversation of flasher vs non-flasher looks like lol. I'd suggest look at them on the ice in person.. fish with people and see how they behave and go after what you think you'd want. Looking at the chase/streak of the fishing coming up on my digital display is amazing and for that alone flashers aren't my thing. 

Picked up a Orvis Recon 6 weight 9'6". Also placed a order for a Allen Trout 2 reel.

That's a great reel. Looks amazing and functions even better. I've had mine for almost a year now.

Picked up an Allen Trout 2 reel.. spooled with Rio Perception WF4F line and orange backing.

 

6'6" 3/4 wt glass rod this year. Should be fun!

A year or two ago, I would have just hopped in the river, and started tossing flies like it was nobody’s business. This day, however, I just sat on the bank, alone, soaking in the sounds of nothingness, and watched the river do its thing. I spent a solid ten minutes just watching for any activity, and didn’t observe much, so I started working sections of the pool with a Czech nymph. It was only after two or three casts, when I was getting ready to stroll to the more familiar part of the stream, that I saw a trout surface in some slack water created by the current rolling around the bridge abutments.

 

 

What you did was hunt for the fish rather than randomly casting. That is a pretty big milestone for any fisherman. 

 

Beauty of a resi and a great read this morning. 

It isn't about the speed of the water but the distance you're trying to cast.

Anything other than a roll cast where I fish is next to impossible but if you're trying to get a fly out 80 yards, then sure, double haul. On really windy days hauling is also your friend.

Learn them both so you're equipped to roll, single or double haul to adjust for the various scenarios.

Last thing you want is to false cast all day long so whatever gets the offering to your target in the most efficient and effective way is what you want to use.

HOLY CRAP. ITS HUGE!

 

That's what she said. 

So i have never float fished ( center pin ). I see here on this forum a lot of you use center pin setups. So my questions for you are as follows: I have a Fenwick Steelhead / Salmon HMX rod ( 10'6' extra light, moderate action 2-10lb rating 1/16th-3/4oz ) Currently use a spinning reel with this rod. Could i use a center pin reel with this rod? Also what equipment would one need to get started ( the essentials ).  I really appreciate and help/feedback or info, would love to start fishing with a center pin.

 

thank you for your help.

 

 

Rod questions has been addressed above already. 

 

Regarding equipment:

 - a few different sized floats to accommodate for the area you fish in

 - hooks .. opinions range from size 8 - 12.  I use 10s and 12s. Have 10s mostly right now so that's what i'm using.. haven't noticed a difference honestly.

 - flurocarbon line for leader

 - beads w/ pegs of some sort (tooth pick, dollorama basting brush bristles, pack of pegs from big box store, elastic bands..etc), or flies, or roe .. whatever you want to use. They all have their time and place, pluses and minuses. 

 - micro swivels .. i use XXS size.

 - tiny friggin split shots

 - a link on what to do with those split shots: http://www.raventack...ng_patterns.php

 - a camera to take pictures of yo sexy a$$ fish (mandatory at least 1 reel dunked in water shot and 1 hero shot)

 

Can't think of much else really. That'll get you on the water and get you fishing. 

This sucks for me since I lost my fishing license.  I dont think Id be able to talk my way out of that one.  Maybe I should go buy a new one

 

Don't think you need to buy a new one.. look into a replacement: https://www.ontario....e-outdoors-card

I was told a tip on how to figure out bottom and RiverRuns mentioned it as well. 

 

Look at which way the tip of your float is pointing. If it's pointing downstream, then your bait, split shots are dragging on the bottom. If it's pointing upstream, then you're good to go. 

 

So, to figure out how deep it should be, find bottom first, then go 6 inches up. You'll need to adjust the depths anyway to figure out where the fish are and what they want, but that rule is the general one. 

 

I use the small silicone tubes on my line so i can easily swap out bobbers and move it up or down as well. Quick, effortless. 

wow.. that is absolutely insane!! what a complete as.shole!

 

Such a nice muskie too. Doing that to any fish is just wrong to begin with.