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#340293 Fly Tying Photo Thread

Posted by fenwickfisher on 17 May 2017 - 09:01 AM

I used a size 12 nymph hook for the back hook with the eye straightened. Used a piece of braided line for the connection to a size 12 scud hook
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#337579 Steelhead

Posted by Fisherman Dave on 07 November 2016 - 03:55 PM

Steelhead are known for being finicky. Use small hooks, light line, "invisible" (flouro) leader if you can with a micro swivel. I am a firm believer in always carrying a couple dozen worms with me, vs. my buddy who will use roe basically all day. If neither appeal to you I would use 1" yarn flies or clusters sacks, some trout flies/woolley buggers, small pink worms (I really don't know why pink, just going with the flow on this one, they work lol), and single egg beads (you put them on your leader and I personally jam a toothpick in there to keep them pegged 2" above the hook). Flies really seem to work when even the kitchen sink isn't, but still personally my ol' faithful is definitely a fat nightcrawler. Take a peak at your water, do you see eggs or flies drifting by? Match.

 

As for how to fish them, base that on the conditions and your ambition. Nothing beats some nice drifts and watching your float sink, however if you want to relax with a can and a lawn chair, if there aren't many snags around then go ahead and still fish/bottom bounce (make sure to keep your bait off the bottom though). You can do this with either just split shots, Carolina rig, or a 3 way swivel. Is there enough of a current to drift? If not, usually pointless to have your float sit in one spot. Is the wind going to impede drifts? Maybe stay on the bottom then.

 

One thing I feel like I need to add, and I feel like I am giving out a secret even though it is so darn obvious: if the 20 guys around you are all still fishing/float fishing using bait and NOT catching anything - USE SOMETHING DIFFERENT! If you want the fish and you are seeing none being caught using the methods most dudes tend to default too (float/bottom bouncing) then rig up a spinner, spoon, or small crank bait and start chucking. Can't tell you how many times I wanted to be lazy but my gut told me I won't catch fish the same way the 20 guys beside me are failing, throw on a spinner, and then next thing you know I got 2 on the bank and everyone is starting to change to spinners. Or vice versa, I was just super bored watching my rod tip to start bouncing and start chucking to kill some time and what do you know? Some of my most productive steelhead days have been off of lures, I'm DONE watching that stupid glow stick on my float before sun rise, I will always chuck till I can actually see the float, then I will float a bit, by then I should see around me what they are (or aren't) being caught on and then adapt. I know it's a catch 22, do you use what you know works and have faith or do you switch it up, me personally I switch things up frequently and have had success, maybe cuz I have piss poor luck and can't rely on the trout hitting my roe vs. the 20 other row sacks on hooks around me on a slow day.


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#334511 Road trip

Posted by MuskieBait on 22 July 2016 - 03:10 PM

So you need to pay for your licence, then pay to enter a draw to fish the productive pools? If there is a separate draw for every day, thats a ridiculous amount of money to be able to fish! It def does put less pressure on the fish population, however it sounds like a major cash grab!


Not only does it sounds like a major cash grab, it is a major case of self entitlement.

Those who can afford to pay for the draws get their own limited access, while everyone who can't afford is left to fight for space on other sections or streams.

You start this system and you get closer and closer to the system in Europe...which you need to either belong to a fishing club (and pay membership fee) or pay ridiculous day use fee to fish in waters that has been declared "private" by the fishing clubs. It is a system entrenched in self entitlement.

People complain about anglers hogging pools and think they own the water...but at least you have the choice to wake up early enough, or fish on week days, to have access to public waters without paying an extra cent. If you woke up late and got to "your" intended spot late, you have no one to blame but yourself. It maintains as a first-come-first-serve system. Once you start restricting access, then the self entitlement really sets into play.


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#334002 Invasion Of The Asian Carp Is An Understatement!

Posted by PUMP KNOWS on 20 June 2016 - 07:50 PM

Jackie-Chan-WTF.jpg


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#333406 Lost keys

Posted by Garfield the Cat on 14 May 2016 - 11:41 AM

Hey guys. About a week ago or two a buddy of mine found a set of keys on the duffins creek just north of hwy 2. If you can describe them I will give you the info for you to pick them up.
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#330789 Bowfin Fishing

Posted by MuskieBait on 24 February 2016 - 02:36 PM

Bowfins can be targeted. When I say "targeted", it implies that it is possible to look for a Bowfin, analyze their behaviour and sightfish for them based on their moods. Blindly fishing a weedbed dunking senkos is not considered "targeting" in my opinion. It is really blind searching hoping to get lucky. I would consider looking for surfacing Bowfins and placing a bait in the area of activity as "targeting" though. Essentially, you are spotting a particular fish (or a few fish) and testing your presentation for success.

 

Spring and early summer is the best time for them as the females cruise along looking for mates, and the males cruise along looking for a suitable place to make a nest.

 

I would discourage fishing for males that are already on a nest though...much like it is discouraged to fish for spawning bass even if regulations allowed fishing during spawning periods. Male Bowfins, at least in my experience, generally prefers some wood cover for nesting.

In early spring, you may see more Bowfins but many of them are very lethargic due to the cold weather. During this time of year, they may be found tight to the bottom in muddy shallow bays soaking up the warmth of the sun. Their appetite is low in cold weather so your hook up ratio is very low even when you can spot more fish.

In late spring, fish are more active and it is not unusual to find multiple fish in a good spawning bay. These fish are looking for mate, so sometimes they are more focused on the spawn and less on food. But given the right presentation, you can succeed.

 

In early summer, many fish have already spawned. This post-spawn period also coincide with the sunfish spawn. Bowfins are often actively hunting along shore. This is the best time of year for success. It is possible to catch them with jigs, spoons and crankbaits when their activity is at the peak. I usually target them with live nightcrawlers, but I know friends have succeed using lures. I did sightfished a Bowfin with a spoon once. It was truly memorable.

 

As summer progresses, the weed growth increases and it becomes difficult to target Bowfins. They hunt in deep weeds and unless you have a fish moving from weedbed to weedbed, or coming out in the open or into the shallows, it will be difficult to find them.

 

Bowfins are not stupid. In fact, I rank them just a hair shy of Common Carp. Steelhead, on the other hand...not even a match. When you first start sightfishing for Bowfin, they will frustrate you to no end, especially if the Bowfin is shallow and very close to shore. They can detect the slightest movement, the dimmest reflection, the faintest vibration and the smallest margin of a careless presentation. I know they can recognize faces as I've met the same Bowfins that were caught earlier in the year and they often refused to bite again or swam away in a hurried fashion. I've watched a Bowfin analyzed a frisky nightcrawler completely covering the #6 circle hook threaded onto the 8lb fluorocarbon leader...for 5 frigging minutes...all the while the Bowfin would look up at me, then back at the nightcrawler, then back at me again...over and over...until it finally decided it wasn't worth the risk and slowly backed away...confident and unhurried...and flipped its middle fin during the exit. I've had multiple staring contests with Bowfin in water 12" or less. Some of them were planning a missile attack to my face or throat...I'm sure of that. They can be evil...but also a darling at the same time. They have great personalities...and each individual is quite different.

If if done properly, you will never see a more excited response than a Bowfin. It would slowly but cautiously approach the frisky nightcrawler, then the dorsal fin would go all crazy wavy as the Bowfin showed its excitement. I live for the wavy fins...all day, any day. The head would tilt down as it slowly sink to the bottom and it would nose right up to the worm until...flash! The mouth opens and the worm is sucked in. Usually, it doesn't hurry away, but slowly turns as it finishes with a couple more gulps (likely the feeling of the line prompt to Bowfin to think the worm is still hanging out). A firm sweep of the rod to pick up the slack line, and then a firmer sweep to "set" the circle hook...and it was another fooled Bowfin.

 

They fight dirty...gator roll, shaking jumps, bulldog dive into the nearest snags...when you think they are all but done, they make another mad dash. It is an intense, but usually less than 1 minute battle. I catch them on 7' medium spinning rod, or if it is more snaggy then the 9' medium heavy surf rod. Sometimes, I like the longer rod for a more delicate presentation, but the shorter rod is great for tight cover. Once on land, they do not quit though. Some will try to flip up and bite your face. I've had a few close calls. They can breath air so they don't tire on land.

 

I thank my friend David Clark, the cofounder of Toronto Urban Fishing Ambassadors, for teaching me how to fish for them. And I am completely obsessed on Bowfin for 3 months of the year (during prime time). Over the years, I've learned more and more about them and how seasonal changes affect fishing success. I've caught Bowfins around Toronto and in Florida...both targeting them and blind fishing for them. Last year, I had a fantastic day in May landing 6 of them in one day while losing another 3 to pulled hooks and line break.

 

A friend of mine did report fantastic fishing for BIG Bowfins at the Bay of Quinte last summer. The exact location will not be shared, but I suspect that if you can find the right weedy bay, you can replicate the same success. He was seeing Bowfins surface in the bay and simply soaked cutbait in the area where the Bowfins surfaced. Super simple but super effective.

 

Just a couple of average Bowfins from Toronto to get you drolling. ;) Top one is female around 8-9lbs and all of a solid 29" (the head is angled away so it was difficult to really see her length), bottom one is a smaller male around 6lbs and 25". I used to use the lip grip a lot since I feared their teeth, but now I can usually handle them without it the handling method I used on the male. Males are beautiful during the spawn and well into post-spawn with their emerald belly and lower fins and occasionally a flash of turquoise on the tip of the tail.

 

Fantastic fish...I'd take them over a Steelhead or a Muskie any day. I'd trade it all.

 

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#330397 New Deadly Action is Coming from Rapala

Posted by PUMP KNOWS on 11 February 2016 - 10:28 AM

Anyone know what it is?  I'm a big fan of the Shadow Rap they released last year.

 


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#306369 2014 Opener! Lets See What You Got!

Posted by fishfearme on 28 April 2014 - 09:50 PM

There are a couple of things about this thread:

 

1) It seems that a lot of people concerned with numbers. When did fishing become about keeping score. Too many people missing the point IMO.

    'What was once a trout-cold, hard, spotted and beautiful-now becomes "number seven" ' - Thomas McGuane

 

2) There is blatant mishandling of fish. Fish laying bleeding on the ground, fish in the mud, fish in the grass, fish being held by the gills; all bad examples of how to properly handle a fish. I realize that these are hearty fish, they wouldn't be able to make this annual journey if they weren't, but lets remember that as river fishermen (and women) we are targeting these fish at their most vulnerable. I'm not some kind of bleeding heart activist, and I'm not trying to stir up any bs, I'm simply asking that we show a little respect to the amazing fish we chase, and that we set a good example for the new generation of steelheader that may be browsing this thread. Personally I love all things steelheading, and want to make sure that my children have the same opportunity to fall in love with these incredible creatures.


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#326045 I just recently bought my fishing boat, but will definitely do the job. Have...

Posted by DarkNDeep2222 on 14 August 2015 - 05:21 PM

Just bought a 1987 Cadorette 16' Bow Rider with a MerCruiser 140hp IO WITH A COBRA OUTDRIVE...can go like stink, and is great for fishing...only thing not there is a trolling motor, but will be receiving a uised Mercury 10hp soon for trolling for pike, muskie and bass...yeeeeehhhaaaaa!

Need one or two guys to fish with...Boat is in a slip at the Holland Marsh...Fishing alone is lonely...Call me at 905-455-1169...I can go almost any time, as I am on ODSP (medical disability from ON)

Have tons of gear, bring your life preserver, but we also have some!

Money for gas would be appreciated...I live at the southern end of Creditview Road, Brampton, ON l6y0g5image.jpg image.jpg
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#204176 Port Credit: Salmon “pier” fishing tips for noobs

Posted by openfire on 30 August 2010 - 01:27 PM

Most of the recent talk here at OFF has been focused on salmon fishing and there seems to be an influx of new fishermen searching the forum for salmon info. So, I thought that I would take this opportunity to share some of the basics I’ve learned over the years while fishing for salmon at Port Credit.

The following info is geared towards fishermen who are new to salmon fishing and should serve as a quick primer/reference that will get a “noob” catching salmon in the least amount of time (hopefully). This info may be useful to some, but redundant for other more experienced anglers. So, noobs keep reading and salmon pros click the back button :)

I should point out that while this is written about Port Credit, most of the basics covered should also apply to other pier fishing scenarios, whether it’s Bronte, Port Hope, etc… Additionally, the following guide is based on my years of fishing Port Credit from mid July to early/mid September.

The largest salmon run in Ontario enters the Credit River through Port Credit in Mississauga, and there’s no better way to get ‘em while they’re fresh than “pier fishing” AKA “spoon chucking” at the mouth of the river... There are other techniques, but none as fun, exhilarating or rewarding as hooking up via the spoon in open water in my humble opinion…

So let’s begin. The first consideration people usually have when they get into salmon fishing is what gear to buy. There is no one right answer, so rather than getting into a drawn out explanation, I’ll just quickly tell you what I use, as it has worked nicely for me. Mileage may vary.

My Gear:

Rod - I have 3 rods that I use for this type of fishing, a 9’, 10’.6” and an 11’.6” (which also doubles as my river rod for steelhead).
Reel – Spinning reel with a spool capacity of 8 – 240 (the spool can hold 240 yards of 8 lb test diameter line)
Line – I load my reel up with 20 lb Power Pro braid (6lb diameter)
Lures - My “spoon chucking” arsenal includes 3 basic lures: Little Cleos, Krocodiles and Rapala J-13’s in various colours and finishes, all tested and proven at Port Credit. More about this later…
So now that you know what I’m packing, I’ll tell you what you need to know about catching salmon at Port Credit, spoon chuckin’ style:

Rule 1) Timing is everything.

If you take anything away from this guide, this should be it. I don’t care how skilled an angler you are, if you don’t fish when the salmon are within casting distance, you obviously won’t catch any fish. Remember, this is shore fishing, so unlike those with a boat, we must wait for the salmon to come to us.

Not to beat this point to death, but I’ve read posts from people who say that they didn’t see any fish being caught. Well, the reality is that if you were there at 1:00PM on a sunny day in clear water in the middle of August, it’s usually a foregone conclusion that you’re in for a good old fashion skunking… A savvy salmon fisherman may have caught 2 or 3 fish just 7 hours earlier and you would be none-the-wiser. I used to feel bad when I would run into guys at Port Credit while I was on a Sunday afternoon jog, seeing them casting cleos in the middle of the day… I would ask, “Any luck?” and they would say “No, nothing… I think it’s still too early in the year… Maybe anther 2 weeks”. It would be the 3rd week of August and I had already landed well over 2 dozen in the past month.

Here’s the deal, when it comes to casting lures from shore at the mouth of the Credit, to have any reasonable expectation of actually catching salmon, you have to time it right. So, when it comes to “timing it right”, you have 4 basic options, listed from best to worst:

a) Crack of Dawn.


This in my opinion is the very best time. When I say “crack of dawn”, I mean you should arrive at Port Credit while it is still pitch black and stay until the sun has risen.

At this time, the salmon are tight into the shore, actively and aggressively feeding. You will often see large boils on the surface of the water… these are salmon. When you see that happen, immediately cast past the boil and retrieve through the spot.

You have about a 2 hour window (depending on when you arrive) to hook as many salmon during this time before the sun gets too high in the sky and the salmon retreat back into deeper water, out of casting range. The window can be extended by an hour or so if it is overcast, but by 8:00 am, it’s usually game over, time to go home.

I usually show up well before dawn, at around 4:30 AM or so, and start with my glow in the dark cleo and stick with this lure until it is completely light outside, when I’ll then switch over to my other standard (non glow) lures.

b ) Fishing during overcast / inclement weather OR when a well defined mud-line exists within casting range.


If there’s a well defined mud-line, you can catch salmon all day long by casting right to the mud-line edges as illustrated in the image below:
Posted Image


Mud-lines form during and after a significant rain event. Salmon can often be found at the edges of the mud-line. If the edge of the mud-line is within casting range, work the edges and you may have a very good day 8)

c) Night Fishing.

Beginning in mid to late July, the salmon begin to stage at the mouth of the Credit. During the day, they are in deep water, way out of casting range. However, at night they move into the river mouth… within casting distance.

What you need is a “glow in the dark” spoon, such as the standard ¾ ounce green/white glow cleo and a camera flash to charge the lure. I usually flash the lure every 5 casts or so.

This is pretty straight forward. Cast, cast, cast, cast, cast, charge… and so on. Put in your hours and you will eventually hook up. Yes, I said hours. Be patient and you will be rewarded. This type of fishing can be hit and miss. Some nights you’ll have multiple hook ups, other nights, nadda.

d) Dusk.

This can be hit and miss, but occasionally the salmon will creep to within casting distance while feeding anywhere from 7:00 PM to 9:00 PM. Signs to look for are birds (terns?)diving into schools of alewives and seagulls grabbing fish off the surface. Chances are the birds are not the only creatures actively feeding on them. Cast right into or preferably past where you see the birds diving, and reel your lure right through the school of Alewives. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve hooked into salmon doing this. The birds can be your best friends… Aerial fish finders.

I don’t waste my time chucking spoons at Port Credit unless it is during one of the above 4 times. I guess that about wraps up rule 1)

So, this brings us to

Rule 2) Replace the dull treble hooks that came with your spoons.

Ditch those trebles and replace them with super-sharp Owner siwash hooks, or at the very least, Gamakatsu siwash hooks if you want to save a few bucks. The bottom line is to get rid of the trebles and replace with siwash hooks. You will get much better hook penetration, and I’ve never had a siwash-hooked salmon get off unless my line snapped.

A pack of Owner siwash hooks will run you about $9 for a 6 pack, but given all the time, energy and expense you’ve already invested, is it really worth skimping out on the one single most important piece of fishing tackle?

Rule 3) Have confidence.

If you strictly follow rule 1) and 2) above, you are maximizing your chances at hooking up with Mr. Chinook Salmon. A good fisherman is a confident fisherman.

A final note about lure selection:


The reason that shore fishermen use spoons is primarily because they are heavy. This allows you to launch your presentation as far as possible, which is vitally important when shore fishing at Port Credit. For this reason, I recommend a ¾ ounce Little Cleo, as opposed to the 2/5 and 1/3 ounce models.

Similarly, Krocodiles come in a couple of sizes. Again, you want the largest size.

Lure color: I’ve found that the best colours are yellow/silver, blue/silver, green/silver both regular and hammered finish (cleo) and fire-tiger.

For visual reference, here is my Port Credit salmon line-up:

My Cleos:

Posted Image

edit to add a pic of the yellow/silver cleo... This is probably the best colour of them all. You may have noticed that it's missing from my collection. That's only because I lost it the last time I went salmon fishing, and I haven't got around to replacing it yet. Here is what it looks like:
Posted Image


My Luhr-Jenson Krocodiles:

Posted Image
My Rapala J-13s:

Posted Image

I think I've pretty much covered the basics, but in case I've missed anything, members with knowledge of this subject should feel free to add to this if you have any additional info.

This post has been promoted to an article

Attached Images

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#324720 Ticket for pictures of out of season catch

Posted by flowerjohn on 11 June 2015 - 01:11 PM

We get them on late ice too and sometimes you have to set them on the ice to get the hook out. I use a go pro so i will get a photo capture of the ongoing action. Once its free i release it. I more appreciate the fish than i would say brag. Concerning peoples' sensitivities regarding fish hanldling, lets get a grip here people. We engage in an activity where we all intentionally injure fish with sharp hopks through their mouths and jaws in and out of season.Lets accept it for what it is and try to be respectful to the fish and get it back to its normal program asap.
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#324482 The Ultimate Photo Thread

Posted by NiagaraSteel on 30 May 2015 - 01:10 PM

Third outing in a row where I've hooked up on either the first or second drift.

Jzvi51t.jpg

Gave up my spot since no one was catching and did it ever pay off! Got my first laker on the second drift, plus it took my own jig that I tied up the night before. Though not on the same level of NADO's beauty.

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#323924 Float-fishing: 10 tips for catching more steelhead

Posted by rick james on 09 May 2015 - 11:48 PM

Hey guys,
 
I'm by no means the best trout angler but I've been around the rivers for over 25 years and I guess I've learnt a thing or two along the way. I've noticed there's a few newbies on the forum requesting tips and in the spirit of goodwill I thought I might share some tips that have helped me. 
 
Here are my Top 10 tips for catching steelhead float fishing
 
10.Give to the river
 
It's good Karma. Whether it's donating your time or money to your favourite association or picking up some garbage each time you fish, give and you shall receive. 
 
9.Hire a guide
It's worth the money. What you'll learn from a knowledgeable guide will fast track you on the path to success. 
 
8.Learn the centre pin
It takes a bit of getting used to but you'll hook and catch way more fish.
 
7.Pool positioning
I like to stand on a rock if I can to get a good vantage point of the drift.  In general  I try to position myself in such a way that I get the most natural drift possible in the areas I expect there fish to be holding, i.e. usually the top or bottom end of a pool.
 
6.Presentation
Holding back or trotting at the beginning of your drift can make sure the fish see your bait before the rest of your rig.  Following the bubble lines with your float straight up and down can ensure you have the most natural presentation possible.

 

5. Right rig.

I tie my high vis mainline to my shot line via a micro swivel and then my shot line to the my leader with another micro swivel. I  start with larger weight (size AB or BB) closer to top of my shot line and get smaller as a go down (no. 1 or no. 4 shot).  I'm careful to match the amount of weight to the size float I'm using.  My float  is attached  by tubing above my first weight and I'll slide it up or down above or below the top swivel depending on the depth  I'm drifting.  I'll use bulkier floats for faster/choppier water and longer/thinner floats for slow water. Medium bulk floats are good for most conditions. I'll also adjust my weights, for example, sliding most closer to the bottom swivel in faster water when I want the bait to get down faster.  I usually use 0.20 mm diameter fluorocarbon for the leader but if conditions are clear I'll go 0.18mm or in dirtier water 0.22 mm. I also use fluorocarbon for my shot line, a thicker diameter than my leader but less than my mainline . My shot line is usually about 3-4 ft in length and my leader about 12-24 inches, again depending. I'll sometimes tie a second leader directly onto the hook of my first leader to drift 2 baits simultaneously i.e. bead/fly at the top and bag/worm/pinkie at the bottom to increase my odds at success. I like using sedge hook in sizes 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16, generally fishing smaller hooks and smaller baits in clearer conditions.

 

4.Right bait
I use fresh roe often brown or speckled trout roe which you can buy on-line and I use a variety of scarf colors, more natural in clearer conditions. Cotton candy pink, white and chartreuse seem to be my best producers. I generally use small roe sacks about dime sized but in other waters golf ball sized roe sacks can be most productive. I also carry many types of beads in various colours and sizes. A 6 mm peach bead is my best producer in clear waters. I also have a variety of flies, plastic and lives worms on me at all times. Chumming a pool with excess roe can stir the fish into action.
 
3..Adjustments
If I know I have the right presentation I generally won't try one bait for more than 5-10 drifts. This could mean changing to a different size/color roe sack or bead for instance. I make multiple adjustments to weight distribution and distance between float to bait to make sure I have that perfect drift before moving on to a different bait. Having a 'tackle tamer' with multiple pre-tied leaders helps to change baits quickly and smoothly. 
 
2.Move
I find if a particular pool is going to produce a fish or more it usually does so early on. If you've tried a few different presentations and adjustments and no fish, move to the next spot it might just be where most of the fish are that day. 
 
1. Location
Knowing one or two  rivers very well and how they fish under various conditions may be better than river hoping and not really understanding any particular river very well.  Timing runs, especially in the fall, is key. Know your flow charts (google Ontario River Data) so you can predict when the river becomes fishable after a heavy rain,  just as it clears up is generally the best time to fish.  
 
I hope this helps. It would be cool to hear your tips and please feel free to add any questions, comments, or  criticisms.
 
Cheers.
 
Rick

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#323879 Tight quarters

Posted by JrFloatnFly on 07 May 2015 - 09:14 PM

Awesome thread!

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#323284 Fly Tying Photo Thread

Posted by swiftcurrent on 22 April 2015 - 11:09 AM

I like the pattern you tied. Looking at the photo, it seems your intent is to have the fly present hook down, as you show it. But it looks like you tied the dumbbell on top of the shank. I would worry that with the dumbbell eyes tied on top of the shank, their weight may flip your fly upside down. Of course if the hook bend and point are heavy enough it may not happen. You might want to try to place the dumbells under the shank and avoid the issue. Alternately, you could position it as is and dress your fly hook up, thus making it snagless.
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